Buenos Aires, Argentina

DH and I spent a few weeks exploring Buenos Aires, the coast of Uruguay & Patagonia last year. We were enamored  by the city’s rich history- who doesn’t love Evita: don’t cry for me Argentina-, its beautiful old neighborhood reminiscent of Paris’s 16th arrondissement (la Recoleta), its grand parks along side the Rio de la Plata & and its bohemian vibe,  a mix of Barcelona (Spain) and the Montreal’s (Canada) plateau. Needless to say we loved it and I would go back anytime. Here are our favorites spots +  a great list thanks to our world-class traveller friend Alison, whose circled the globe many times and has many great recommendations!

Hotels:

Note on currency: 1$= 3  Argentinian peso…the $ goes far here, so you can splurge a little on accommodations!

BoBo hotel (Palermo Soho) We loved this little gem located on a leafy street in Palermo Soho. One of the first boutique hotels in B.A it only has 7 beautiful rooms housed in a converted & renovated 4 story family home. Our favorite room is the Argentina room with its sunken jacuzzi and terrace. The staff is extremely professional and helpful; not to be missed: drinks or breakfast on their lovely interior patio.

Home Hotel (Palermo Viejo) A little off the beaten path is Home, another beautiful (if not a little too minimalist) boutique hotel owned by a British record producer…so yes, this is where the cool kids hang out, especially in the summer months with its beautiful patio & pool.  Book room 17 it has its own private pool!

Costat Petit Hotel (Palermo Soho) For the high-end boutique style traveller- This is an impeccable little hotel with only 4 guest rooms. It is beautifully designed with exquisite furnitures, a beautiful cypress tree-lined garden with turquoise-tiled pool and very accommodating staff!

Four Seasons Buenos Aires (Recoleta) For the discerning business traveller with elegant taste. The Four Seasons is up to par in B.A but the rooms aren’t as design centric as they are in other hotels on this list. The Sunday brunch at the Mansion is not to be missed as is the excellent Porteno massage.

Alvear Palace (Recoleta) Located on the ritzy Madison-avenue-like strip that is Avenida Alvear this is certainly the grandest of all of B.A’s old hotels and worth a look even if it’s just to have tea at l’Orangerie!

When we go back this is where we want to stay:

Casa Sur Hotel (Recoleta)

Jardin Escondido (Palermo Soho) The new Coppola hangout, with a fabulous pool!

Moreno Hotel (San Telmo)

Restaurants & bars:

Note: Argentinians eat late, as in 11pm or later, so don’t be a tourist and show up at 8pm unless you want to eat alone!

Bar Uriarte (Palermo Soho) Industrial decor, beautiful garden, 2nd floor gallery space for up and coming artists, great bar scene and mostly excellent food (and very prices). A must!

Casa Cruz, Uriarte 1658, T 4833 1112, located only a block away from Bar Uriarte, Casa Cruz feels light years away from the low-key atmosphere of Palermo and closer to the club district of New York with its velvet ropes, polished brassed door, and red velvet sofas. That being said, the food is excellent, if a little overpriced, the service is great, the bar scene is hopping & cocktail list is decadent.

La Cabrera Possibly DH’s favorite Parilla ever, the best tasting grass-fed beef & most amazing sides add to the relaxed atmosphere (best seating is outside on the tree-lined side-walk). Not to worry if there is a long wait, the host will gladly offer some Chandon sparkling wine & tapas on the house!

Other great authentic Parilla (steak/BBQ) restaurants include: La Brigada (San Telmo) authentic and charming;  Miranda (Palermo Soho, Costa Rica 5602 T 4771 4255) for the scene and be seen & El Obrero (La Boca, Agustin R. Caffarena 64 T 4362-9912) which mixes Argentinian & Italian grill specialties.

Quimbombo Natural Food & Drink (Palermo Soho) 3 story yoga studio, home design shop and restaurant in 1. Beautiful outdoor terrace, delicious healthy food, a nice break after all the lomos! Service can be a little slow though.

Mark’s Deli & Coffee House (Palermo) After a long day of walking, shopping & shoe trying, what’s better than a cappuccino and a dulce de leche & coconut pastry? Nothing. Everything at Mark’s is delectable, but good luck getting a seat!

Cafe Tortoni (Centro) Go for the old school vibe and a drink, not for the food as you’ll only leave disappointed. This is an Argentinian institution and worth a visit.

Gran Bar Danzon (Recoleta) This fantastic bar on the 2nd floor of a nondescript building serves perfect cocktails, great tapas & has a long list of wonderful Argentinian wines. It’s the perfect place to immerse yourself as a local for their happy hour (8 to 10 pm) which is our “hungry hour”.

Things to do:

• Walk around Palermo Soho & Palermo Hollywood (great streets are: El Salvador, Honduras, Costa Rica, Armenia & Malabia)
• Get an incredible massage called the Porteno at the Four Seasons Buenos Aires; it’s the best we’ve ever had!
• Get up on Sunday and head to the Feria de San Telmo
• Buy: Luciana Regolo & Mishkas shoes & shop at Maria Cher
• Go to yoga at the very cool Quimbombo & have a tasty & healthy lunch on their outdoor roof terrace
• Walk in the Jardin Japones and up to the Zone Botanico
• Shop and walk around La Recoleta, the high-end-16th arrondissement-like area of B.A with all the Ralph Lauren’s & Hermes of the world
• Walk through the maze-like Recoleta Cementerio looking for Eva Peron’s grave (we didn’t find it, but it was hot and DH was hungry)
• Have Sunday brunch at the Mansion at the Four Season, truly one of the best meals ever!
• Tango at Confiteria Ideal or just watch the show

Want to explore outside of B.A?

If you have 1 day:

• Uruguay: jump on the buquebus (ferry boats) to beautiful Colonia del Sacremento for the day (1 hour by ferry). Its a Unesco heritage site along El Rio de la Plata. If you can, stay in Carmelo (2 hour drive from Colonia or 15 minutes private plane ride) at the absolutely stunning Four Seasons Buenos Carmelo. In town, check out the tiny La Casa de Colonia Galeria It has great contemporary art from Argentinian & Uruguayan artists. Have lunch at “El Drugstore”, it may look a little disheveled but its great.

If you have 2 days:

• Iguazu National Park: Take a local flight on Aerolineas to the Iguazu Falls National Park between Brasil & Argentina. It’s a 2 hour flight to the world heritage site and it will knock the wind out of you. No fancy hotels here though, so stay at one of the little hotels listed on the park’s website.
• Head to Argentinian wine country in Mendoza, a 2 hour flight from B.A overlooking the Andes, and stay at Posada Salentein a beautiful estancia or at the stunning Cavas Wine Lodge and sip your worries away.

If you have 3 days:

• Bariloche, Hop on a 2 hour flight south of B.A to the beautifully scenic lake district. Stay at one of these exquisite hotels and enjoy the view. Hotel Aldebaran in the San Pedro Peninsula or the sublime Llao Llao resort

If you have 5 to 7 days:

• See the Argentinian wilderness and its vastness in El Calefate, Patagonia. It’s a 3 hour flight from B.A to the region with the turquoise lakes and the Perito Moreno Glacier national park. Stay at Eolo, Patagonia’s Spirit the most elegant and majestic lodge with four star service while exploring the vastness of Patagonia; this is possibly the most beautiful place we’ve ever stayed at! What do to while in Patagonia? Drive to El Chalten and never cross a single car, trek on Cerros Fitz Roy, fly fish at Lago Roca & ice trek on Perito Moreno.
• If you have even more time, drive across the Chilean border to the Torres del Paine national park and experience Explora Patagonia in Salto Chico.

From Miss Alison, World Traveller:

Hotels

• http://www.homebuenosaires.com/home/ (Palermo Viejo/a little removed from the action, very modern/minimalist and popular)
• http://www.bobohotel.com/ (Palermo Soho/great location, highly recommended)
• http://www.faenahotelanduniverse.com/ (Expensive, far from clubs/bars but very cool – Puerto Madero)
• http://www.costapetithotel.com/ (Palermo Soho, great location, large rooms, great service – only 4 suites)
• http://buenosaires.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp (Expensive, beautiful hotel, just opened but renovated old palace, see if you can get a corporate rate, otherwise go for a drink/spa treatment, away from the action but easily reached - Recoleta)

Restaurants & Bars

• La Cabrera – a must, great meat, service, make sure to be at original location, not La Cabrera Notte (Palermo Soho)
• Casa Cruz – also top of the list; high end, very stylish, great food (Palermo Soho)
• Olsen - a must for brunch (Palermo Viejo)
• Cabana Las Lilas - great food, on the water, a bit touristy but locals go there too (Puerto Madero)
• Casa Salt Shaker – private dinner party, food was decent but the experience was awesome (San Telmo area)
• Bar Uriarte – hip  (Palermo Soho)
• Persicco or Freddo – ice cream
• Sucre – hip (Belgrano)
• Osaka – good sushi  (Palermo Soho)
• Carnal – good roof deck  (Palermo Soho-ish)
• 878 Thames – good early or late (after hours place), great drinks (Palermo Soho)
• Faena – pool party if warm enough or red bar; must see (Puerto Madero)
• Millon – beautiful building, good scene (Centro)
• Club del Vino – a music venue, good bar (Palermo Soho)
• Bar Danzon – great ‘happy hour’ place(Recoleta)

Clubs

• Mint – on the water, big, outdoor area, try to get into VIP areas
• Bahrein – Centro/Microcentro, great music, smaller club
• Asia de Cuba – good scene
• Niceto – one of the most popular clubs
• Opera Bay - looks like the Sydney opera house (Puerto Madero)

Sights

• SHOPPING!!!  Palermo Soho is best,
• El Albasto is their mall (very crowded but somewhat interesting building),
• Recoleta is high end, pretty to walk around
• Malba – modern art museum; very good collection (small enough only takes 1-1.5 hrs to walk through)
• San Telmo (flea/antique) Market (Sun.) – cool area; go for the experience, not the shopping
• Recoleta Cemetery
• Palacio Duhau – great spa, definitely go for a drink, converted into Park Hyatt hotel – gorgeous (Recoleta)
• Cafe Tortoni – very touristy old Tango place (Centro)
• Chez Roberto – a milonga bar/club, good to see a tango show
• Japanese Gardens
• Day trip to Delta/’Little Bird’ (“pájaro pequeño”) Island (need to charter a boat); have great cafes there -
• Futbol match
• La Boca – walk around this area; not the most safe place, go during the day
• La Finca wines are excellent – Luigi Bosca and Morta Negro malbecs were our fave!!!  You are allowed up to 6 bottles duty free