Northern Coastal California

Palo Alto – Big Sur – Carmel – Monterey – Half Moon Bay – San Francisco

Even with just a few days, it’s entirely possible to explore the rugged coastal beauty of California (though we could have stayed a lot longer). What makes this trip so appealing in winter is the “rainy season”, which leaves the hills green and lush, which is striking against the purple sands & the blues of the ocean. If you like Cinque Terre, the Amalfi Coast or even the coast on southwestern France you will be charmed by the Northern California coast, especially considering there are few crowds. What is also surprising is the great mix of hippy meets eco-friendly design and the unexpected refined locavore restaurants that don’t emphasize “granola” foods so much as healthy, local and seasonal.

Thursday – Palo Alto

Start in Palo Alto; about 30 minutes south of San Francisco; which is home to Stanford university & headquarter to a number of Silicon Valley technology companies. Though it sounds a tad dry, it does offers a few surprises, notably in the restaurant category!

Stay at the Rosewood Sand Hill. Top notch service, great design, fun bar & extremely gracious concierge service.

Eat at Evvia in Palo Alto, sister restaurant to Kokkari in San Francisco. Delicious, excellent and friendly service, one of our best meals on the West Coast. If you are craving a chocolate soufflé go to The Village Pub in Woodside, near Menlo Park. Just don’t expect top-notch service to go along with your top-notch soufflé - fair warning!

Friday – Big Sur

Highway 1:

Head west to the most beautiful and scenic highway route in California and proceed south towards Big Sur to witness the magical rugged scenery, to see some otters & to experience hippy chic living. Have a drink while watching the sunset at the groovy restaurant & bar Nepenthe (and no, the website does not do it justice). What makes Nepenthe worth a visit near sunset is not just its location; perched high up gives you an incredible perspective of the valley and the ocean; but to see the sunset while sitting next to a huge Bondfire.

Lodging:

• On a budget? Stay at Glen Oaks, original 1960s wood cabins motel on the outside, eco-friendly modern refitted havens with thermostat-controlled fireplaces on the inside. There is also a communal fireplace outside so you can roast those marshmallows as a group!
• Want to splurge? The Ventana Inn & the Post Ranch Inn, offer stunning views, architectural delights & high-end service
• Want to live like a hippy? Try Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn built by Mom & Pop Deetjen in the 1930s, the cabin-like rooms are still intact to the 30s style (not all rooms have en-suite bathrooms) so the only saving grace is the wonderful restaurant housed there!

Eat:

• Deetjen’s Local seasonal bar food complement the rustic, cosy & romantic dining room. Renowned for the fantastic breakfasts
• Ventana Inn The menu uses local, sustainable ingredients from California’s Central Coast to create memorable dishes but its the modern design that is the real winner here!
• Sierra Mar at the Post Ranch Inn offers haute cuisine with an haute view!
• Nepenthe The best views in town, means that to enjoy it you should come for lunch or drinks

Saturday – Big Sur/Carmel/Monterey

Hike: Head south to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and try out one of the many self-guided nature trails. For a shorter walk, go to the Julia Pfeiffer Burns fall: it features redwood, tan oak, madrone, chaparral, and an 80-foot waterfall that drops from granite cliffs into the ocean from the Overlook Trail. A panoramic view of the ocean and miles of rugged coastline is available from the higher elevations along the trails east of Highway 1. Definitely worth a stop!

Breakfast: The Big Sur Bakery may look like a shack but everything that comes out of its kitchen is exquisite! Delicious quiches, ricotta filled croissants & homemade jams

Drive: Trek back up Highway 1 and make the special trip to Pebble Beach and experience the 17 mile drive (as DH pointed out, they could have come up with a better name). You don’t need to play golf to appreciate how amazing hitting golf balls must be here! Sea Lions, otters and seals line the coast and beautiful landscaped emerald fairways fill the land between the Spanish Bay and Pebble Beach.

Eat:

• Roy’s at Pebble Beach have lunch overlooking the ocean near Spanish Bay
• Stillwater at the Lodge at Pebble Beach has a great lunch menu, we also liked The Terrace Lounge which is more casual
• La bicyclette in Carmel has wonderful rustic french food

Stay & Stroll the streets of Carmel by-the-Sea, a beautiful sea-side town with delightful boutiques and lovely inns.

• Tradewinds Carmel Chic & trendy
• The forest lodge, Carmel-by-the-sea Low-key & cosy
• The Cypress Inn, Carmel-by-the-sea Charming boutique hotel

Sunday – Half Moon Bay/ San Francisco

Wine tasting: Feel like a wine tasting inland adventure? Drive 15 miles inland from Carmel on the Carmel Valley Road and discover Talbott, Bernardus, Georis & Heller Estate wineries. Have a snack at the Corkscrew Cafe.

Half Moon Bay: Drive up the coast through Santa Cruz, for a real beach town feel then continue towards Half Moon Bay. Envoy lunch in Half Moon Bay at either:

• Sam’s Chowder House
• Cafe Gibraltar
• Mezzaluna by the sea

Go to the Ritz Carlton at Half Moon Bay for the views and to walk along the beach, its breathtaking. Sit on the outdoor terrace and enjoy a glass of wine or a hot chocolate while the sun sets and a bagpipe serenades you on the lawn.

Head back to San Francisco (about 45 minutes from Half Moon Bay) and try one of our new favorite restaurants:

• SPQR A Roman trattoria in Pacific Highs
• 1550 Hyde Quaint seasonal Californian wine bar & restaurant in Russian Hill
• Foreign Cinema California/Mediterranean-inspired menu in an industrial chic setting located in the Mission district

A special thanks to Amanda at the Rosewood Sand Hill for all the recommendations and travel ideas!