Rome, Italy

48 hours in Rome and how to enjoy the dolce vita

DH and I spent a few days in Rome this summer and we absolutely fell in love with the city. I spent most of my childhood going to Tuscany and Northern Italy and had always heard that Rome was too crowded, too hot and just too much in the summer…We were more than pleasantly surprised by the beauty of the city, the kindness of the Romans and the aura that the eternal city had to offer.

What did help though, was having fantastic recommendations by one of my friends Laurence, who spent many years living there. Below you will find our top spots and hers as well! Ciao Bella

Hotels:

• Hotel Exedra, Beautiful 19th century completely restored palazzo located in Piazza Republica (very close to the train station) uses a combination of classic decor and modern amenities to create all the comforts of a modern  and glamorous hotel. Excellent concierge service, attentive staff and lovely morning breakfast. Don’t forget to sip a Bellini on the roof top terrace and bar! Ask for a room on the 4th floor with a balcony.
• Villa Laetitia Located along the Tiber river, Villa Laetitia is owned and decorated by Anna Fendi, this is a small gem in an otherwise boisterous city! There is a small garden and each room has its own kitchenette. About a 15 minute walk to the Piazza del Popolo.
• Casa Howard Two beautiful guest houses, where each room has its own theme! The two guest houses each have about 5 rooms and are located very close to the Spanish steps. Our favorite is “the American Cousin’s room” in the Via Sistina house.
• Il Palazzetto Located right next to the Spanish steps this is a gem! Mostly a restaurant and the wine academy of Rome they also have four superb rooms which are notoriously hard to get! If you want to stay in this beautiful boutique hotel book well in advance…if not go for their wine tastings and wine classes.
• Portrait Suites Located a few blocks from Piazza di Spagna, this Ferragamo designed residence has not only a great look but superb service and incredible roof top garden with sensational views!
• Hotel de Russie, If you want to go all out, this is the place to go to! It’s modern, classic  & glam to a T, it’s perfectly located (along the Spanish Steps), has a superb view of the Piazza del Popolo, incredible manicured gardens and a magnificent brunch if you are coming in on an early flight!

Restaurants & other deliciousness:

• Taverna Trilussa: Via del Politeama 23, 065818918, Typical Romain cuisine, with the BEST Carbonara of the entire trip! DH still dreams about it, need I say more? Its located right below Freni e Frizioni in the cool neighborhood of the Trastevere, so I suggest getting drinks there pre or post dinner!
• Trattoria Da Lucia: Vicolo del Mattonato 2, 065803601, Wonderful and delicious family-run restaurant
• Gusto: Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, 063226373, Very popular so make sure you have a reservation for this fun restaurant located under glorious arches near a lovely piazza. Service can be a bit dicey but the vibe is great and the modern food and great Sunday brunch is worth it!
• La tazza d’Oro: Old-school Roman espresso bar, they make an incredible granita di caffe!
• Giolotti: Insane Gelato!
• Da Buffetto: Via del Governo Vecchio, 114, +39066861617, Wonderful piping hot, slightly oddly shaped pizzas
• Antica Salumeria:  Piazza della Roltonda, 4, Pantheon, Run by the vivacious Vita, she will make you a delicious Panini, make you taste incredible salamis & sweets and you’ll leave feeling full and delighted by the charming Italian experience!
• Freni e Frizioni: Via del Politeama, 4-6, 0645497499, Loud, hip and fun are the theme at this bar which serves great cocktails and a free apero buffet all night long. The crowd spills out onto the adjacent piazza making this the place to be all night!

What to do in 24h?

• Trevi Fountain: Get up at dawn (or stay up if you were dancing all night) and go throw a penny in the Trevi fountain, it’s the most beautiful light and there are no crowds!
• Pantheon: From the Trevi fountain its a short walk to the beautiful Pantheon, also great to see without too many crowds early in the morning. Indulge in a very tasty Granita di Caffe at La tazza d’Oro!
• Piazza Navona: In the same general direction as the Pantheon, it’s just beautiful and lively!  A short distance from there is the Campo di Fiori, which has a fun Saturday morning market.
• Galleria Borghese: Walk or run off the morning cornettos through the beautiful Villa Borghese! It’s a stunning park, and when it gets too hot, hop into the Galleria Borghese to see the incredible architecture & gardens but also the fascinating work of Caravaggio.
• Lunch: if starving head to the “best pizza” in Rome at Da Buffetto in Piazza Navona and cool off with a gelato at Giolitti (Laurence swears by it, read below)
• Vatican Museums: When it gets too hot to walk around Rome, head to the Vatican! Saying its spectacular is the understatement of the year. Get a private tour of the Vatican Museum (about 2:30 hours) from Viator Tours -complete with a very funny Irish tour guide & banter-and view the Sistine chapel & St Peters. NOTE: Do not do this while wearing high heels, I did, not to be repeated!
• Afternoon delight? Head to Bar del Fico near Piazza Navona to soak in all of that the Dolce Vita has to offer or if starving grab a delicious Panini at Antica Salumeria near the Pantheon!
• Head towards Via dei Condotti for a little shopping…(DH was not pleased here)
• Finish the night off with Aperitivo at Freni & Frizioni and dinner at Taverna Trilussa…walk off the Carbonara heading towards Isola Tiberina

From my Rome savvy friend Laurence:

For a very typical Italian neighborhood, I would recommend spending time & getting a hotel in the Trastevere, which is so charming with its small narrow streets. For something a little more low key, I would recommend staying near the Campo di Fiori or near the Pantheon.

-For the coffees: Caffè Sant’Estacchio, they have a secret mix, next to the Pantheon

-For the granita di caffe: La Tazza d’Oro, piazza Pantheon

-For the gelato: GIOLITTI!!!, near the Pantheon

-For lunch: the buffet at Gusto, near the Piazza di Spagna

-For the Roman pizzas: Da Baffeto (near Piazza Navona) or Baffeto2 (near the Campo di Fiori)

-For dinner:

• Ai Spagghetari, Piazza San Cosimato (Trastevere), beautiful terrace, wonderful antipasto to share
• Da Luigi, beautiful terrace on the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele near Piazza del’Orologio, incredible spaghetti al’astice (lobster)

-For drinks:

• L’apero at Freni e Frizioni, THE place to be, great drinks and free & delicious apero buffet…
• Any bar on the Isola Tiberina, same principle applies: pay for a drink and get free, unlimited “tapas” apero
• La Vineria, Campo di Fiori has great ambiance
• Caffe della Pace, mythical place located behind Piazza Navona
• Bar del Fico, very Romain vibe, on the Piazza del Fico

Buon viaggio